1880s Book Dress - Up to all hours and still no sleeves.

I have never had such problems setting sleeves.  My hypotheses is that the combination of the lack of my tailoring skills, the amount of augmentation to the original pattern and my fabric have been the trifecta of problems keeping me from finishing.

I cut finished and tried to set both sleeves yesterday (or rather early this morning).  I basted it all in only to stand back and see the horror of it all.  Ug...I took a pic but don't want to post it quite yet.  There was just way too much material in the cap, and I don't know how to reduce that problem easily.

I am tackling this by using the curvature of another pattern which I do like.  I'm not cutting anything yet but I'll inset the sleeves and see what happens.  Right now it is about just getting it all done enough.  Tea is tomorrow.....no sleeves, no hem, no hat....ugh.