1880s Book Dress - V: Getting Pinned Together

Well, I think my fabric choices were a mistake.  Got to love the learning curve.  I love the jewel tone of the blue cotton velvet, a bargain clearance purchase.  I bought a contrasting fabric that has the flavour of the Book Cover Dress.  I was unable to find an affordable print that would match exactly.  I did find, online, super lux fabric that would have worked but no way would I ever be willing to spend $100/yard on fabric.  So back to the discount fabric store back room.  here is what I bought and a snapshot of the Book Cover Dress:

 

I cut out the pieces to the bodice and flatlined all the blue with a heavy black muslin, and the vest pieces I cut two pieces of fashion fabric and stiff tightly woven cotton between the two. The blue/black combo were serged and the print required me to sew the stiffener in.   Now I realize that my seams are going to be quite bulky....arrrrrgh....I will deal, it is a costume not clothing reproduced.

Then I started pinning together...the following picks are just pinned not sewn -- I am pleased with the reduction of the vest pieces:

I will need to unpin the bottom sides of the top to allow for the bulk in the skirt and draping...we'll see how that goes...

I tried to match the pattern but the vest pieces were so curved it wasn't going to happen past a mid point:

Now I have to figure out how to add the lapels, which is going to add even more bulk to the vest seams...ugghh...apparently I'm really whiny tonight....sometimes well intentioned sewing projects are...well...fussy and irritating....Here is a picture of what I'm aiming for but not up and around the collar.  Since the Book Dress is kind of a side view this picture is a good guide: