I am getting closer to a good fit. I have previously referred to a Victorian Bodice Class I took through the Greater Bay Area Costumer's Guild and how much it helped me understand how to get a good fit. I recut the vest pattern piece and the second piece of the front to get the proportions wanted. I still have to add the lapels which I have to draft in and figure how to add them without adding too much bulk to the seams as I am using heavier weight materials. I also am thinking that I will need to add spiral boning although I had not intended to.
I plan to flatlne the velvet with pretty heavy canvas and most likely will not add a lining - because I make costumes and not clothing -- and frankly I'm running out of time.
Below is a before and after pic of the pattern pieces. The disclaimer here is that I am hard to fit and it is not the Truly Victorian pattern that is so out of wack. I purposely cut the front sections a size bigger because of my bust to waist ratio. The back piece and two piece sides required little adjustment.
|I like the proportions of the vest much better now than before (see photo below)|
|Red lines were the original seam lines and the green is where I wanted the seam.|