Self - Education in Corset Making or "I think I always do things the hard way."

I want to look like the above corset, I have a good "squishability" factor, a rather ample bosom to ribcage ratio and apparently based on my attempts to do this "learning" project more junk in my trunk than I thought I did.  I know that you also have to allow the squish to go somewhere, it either has to go up or down.  I don't know much about corset making.  Years ago I had a spectacular corset made at Dark Garden, http://www.darkgarden.com. I've never owned a piece of clothing that has potentially gone up in value, when I had my corset custom made it was decidedly cheaper and the waist size was a 22".  Now they are more expensive and my lady bits have grown in girth.

I began by purchasing a really REALLY cheap Chinese corset.  For the cost of the busk I got the whole thing sent to my home, shipping included.  Got to love Ebay.  I bought a huge size thinking I could just adjust the curves down leaving the bust and hips.  That was a fiasco.  Obviously I need to take a pattern drafting class.  All was not lost because I decided to add gussets.  Who knows if this will work in the end but I don't want to start sewing all my upcoming costumes on my old corset which doesn't do what I want it to do.  I may try this then in the end by a corset pattern anyway, we'll see.

Here is the bought corset,you can see it is basically a large macaroni tube on me:

I started by marking the basic natural waist and where the under bust was while wearing a bra, I marked on the outside and transferred to the inside with water soluble sewing marker :

I then put my DG corset on manikin and padded the hips to a more correct size for the everyday me and not the tightly corseted me.  I deconstructed part of the corset and started pinning away...well that was just a big duhhh....when I tried it on.  I started undoing seams at the bust and hips.  Note to self:  when using sharp tiny scissors always remember to take off your shirt or you *might* cut holes in it...learn from me people...really...

You can see that the corset is starting to take some shape.  Again, people...remove clothing before you start cutting seams...unless you are not partial to your garments -- fraycheck was my friend that day.

I started doing some fittings without a top, and decided my girls were a bit out of control.  I need to take a class, there is magical physics behind this somewhere.  I'm sure there is an algorithm that holds the secret of extreme corset curvature.  Note that this is all done without the boning at this point except at the back.  The corset came with cheapie boning (as can be expected for a corset at a silly low pricepoint).  I will add spiral boning eventually.  I made gussets from two layers of cotton and one of very thin silk -- but it was what I have in the house.  I am trying to make the best use of my stash.

I took the time to base the edges and gussets to not have too much slippage.  Basted and watched Dr Who...I believe in using my time efficiently :-)

I started with the bust gussets but there was too much width from armpit to armpit so the girls were more widespread and relaxed than I wanted them to be:

 

 I then tightened up the seam on the sides, here you can see the pinning:

I am holding up the side (above) to mimic the boning that would eventually go in.  Unfortunately, I was off on my sewing, and apparently am not all that symmetrical, I flattened one of the ladies and had to go back and let some of the seam out:

Now it is break-time I'm tired of looking at this.  I've put it on and taken it off today at least 157 times...ok, maybe not that many but it sure feels like it!! lol! 

The Quick 'n Dirty $4 1880s Duct Tape Hat

I haven't posted in a while because I got bogged down with life which impeded my sewing, then I stagnated...my fault entirely.  I'm trying to get motivated.  So many projects and so little time -- or in another way, tickets to the ball in hand and no dress...sigh.

Months ago I worked on the Book Cover Dress and literally at the last minute crafted a hat.  I called that project my "quick 'n dirty" project because it is pure theater, very little craftsmanship and lots of hot glue.  Now since I do costumes and do not reproduce clothing, I was happy with the outcome which at least on the outside was fab.  Here is the breakdown of the cost:

$3.99  Thrift store fedora, new with the tag still on it.
$1.50  Small bit of discount fabric store fabric
$0       Feathers from the stash.
$0       Ribbon from the stash
$0       Duct tape, hot glue/gun, and all the bits to put it together (already in hand).

Total:  aprox. $5.50 - not bad when starting with a four dollar thrift store hat.


THE GOAL:

Tall and fabulous!

THE PROCESS:

First I began by using a sharpie and marking the hat, estimating where I wanted the slope and giving me a line to cut out the front portion because the angle was not good for a Victorian-ish reproduction.

Here you can see the slope I decided on.

I then added strips of duct tape both horizontally and perpendicularly to shape the slope that I wanted.  I don't have a picture of the next steps in which I took a round piece of cardboard and hot glued it on the top to give me a flat hard surface to work with and to make sure I didn't have sag on the hat top.  I then had a long rectangular piece of fabric which I eased and pleated around the brim.  This was folded to cover the lower brim and tucked into the inside top of hat.  On the outside I snipped tabs to lay flat on the side of the hat body.  once that was pinned, glued, and tacked with a needle and thread I covered the round top with fabric which had tabs hanging over the edge.  Finally I used a rectangular piece of fabric with the edges folded over and ran it around the had body.  I sewed the top edge with a needle and thread but hot glued the lower and back seam.  Then I played for a while trimming the hat out with stuff I already had and using pictures of 1880s hats as guides.

Although not perfect it worked with the outfit.  I'm not thrilled that the peacock feathers decided to lean opposite the other feathers.  I probably will fix that before the next time I wear the hat.  One day when I have time (hear hysterical laughter in the background) I may make a real hat.

I had been horribly ill right before this event, and apparently it showed, I really do have lips..lol.  I am not normally this pale although for some costuming I wish I was.  Enjoy the Duct Tape Hat...

The Very Inspiring Blogger Award 

 

I was very flattered to find that Lauren from the amazing American Duchess blog had included my blog in her winners for the "Very Inspiring Blogger Award" -- I just love her blog and have found it an amazing resource over the last year.  Her historical information, sewing information, and shoes are fabulous!  I would include her on my list but since she passed on the award, and as a recipient herself,  I'm going to note her here and add in 15 other informative blogs. This is really  a wonderful opportunity to share favorite blogs with others:

To accept the award, one must:
1. Display the award and link back to the person who nominated you.
2. State 7 facts about yourself.
3. Nominate 15 bloggers for the award.
4. Notify the winners.

Seven facts about myself:
1. My grandmother taught me to sew.
2. Vintage cars and motorcycles are a passion and I have been riding my own motorcycle for almost 22 years.
3. I used to be able to corset down to 22 - 23" (pre motherhood).
4. I am bilingual.
5. I often resolve sewing difficulties in my sleep by dreaming the solution.
6. I've been doing the "vampire thing" long before it was trendy.
7. Along with knowing how to use a sewing machine I know how to use power tools which has helped rehabbing our 113 year old farmhouse (in the middle of a big city).

My 15 Nominations:

1.  Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild - this is the page run by the guild I belong to.  Wonderful costume pattern reviews, events, and links to other events.  They also have a list you can join to ask questions and learn from others.

(The following are not in any type of order, they are all really wonderful!)
2.  Before the Automobile - amazingly beautiful underthings and gowns by this beautiful seamstress.
3.  Victorian Tailoring  - wonderful men's costuming site.  This tailor's work is inspiring.
4.  Historical Sewing - want to learn all about 19th c. clothing?  This is a great site to hone skills.
5.  European 18th Century Clothing Reproductions - I'm not sure what language this is in but the clothing is breathtaking.  Worth a look for the inspiration.
6.  French 18th Century Clothing Costumes - you can navigate this site easily without knowing French, amazing 18th century reproductions, stunning!
7.  Bridges on the Body - many of us did the Titanic corset sew along hosted by this blogger, with excellent results.
8.  Demode Couture - another fabulous costumer with a strong focus on 18th century clothing and wig instructions!
9.  Steampunk Scholar - I've enjoyed the info and photos on this site as I've broadened my costuming in this area.
10.  Waisted Efforts - a talented professional seamstress, great photos, and fine work.
11.  Southron Creations - full of 1860s history and dresses.
12.  The Pragmatic Costumer - great historical information, photos, clothing, inspiration.
13.  The Art of Mourning - I love the jewelry and information on this site.  For those who do mourning wear it is a must to i.d. and wear period correct (looking) jewelery with their mourning ensembles.  17th - early 20th century jewelry and information.
14.  Steampunk Fashion - great resource for photos posted by members.  Wide range of clothing, ideas, abilities.
15.  Daze of Laur - another professional seamstress with mad skills.  Lovely lovely corsets and gowns!

My Downton Abbey Dress -- A Fixer Project

This was a test run, I'm holding the back closed as I was too lazy to have all the little dingleball closures done up.  Sorry for the blurry pic, this is the best I have right now.

I'll begin my letting you all know that I didn't finish the Regency dress project in time for the ball - ugh.  I had a number of fitting challenges that I could not meet on my more Victorian oriented dress form.  I will post some of my work later but since I am planning to wear my real Edwardian dress this weekend I thought I would talk about my fixer project.

This wonderful dress (sorry about the really bad photos) was purchased as part of a lot several years ago, and has one small stressed fabric area in front but other than that surprisingly intact.  The heavy lace work is exquisite!  And the crazy thing is the dress fits as thought it was made for me.  Motivated by a new commitment to work on projects this year, the Downton Abbey series, and an opportunity to wear it, I pulled it out and started to think about what to do.

I started by soaking the dress in cold water with a little oxyclean in it.  The first round was really just the hem and quickly turned the bathwater yellow.  The dress has heavy crochet lace that is padded and lots of "dingle-berries."  The woman I bought the dress from didn't think it should be soaked because of the dingles but there was not other way to begin getting it clean.  I took the risk.  Three soakings later, two hem only and one whole dress, the whole garment looks better!

Second soaking, bad stain area outlined in green.

There are several spots that need mending on the lace.  Nothing major on most of the dress, but there are small areas on the sleeve ends that I'm not sure how to tackle.  I will pick up cotton thread, maybe button hole twist that will be colour matched and give it a try.  A few hook and eyes need repair but overall the dress is SO intact.  Not one of the dingles are missing.

What would be perfect with this dress are American Duchess' new Edwardian Shoes. You can see them here:

 http://www.american-duchess.com/

Although my shoes are ok, her's would be wonderful!  What colour would you want?  

Here are some details of the lace on my dress.  When I get it photographed better I will put new photos up:

Really Retro to Regal Regency

I don't normally rework existing pieces of clothing but I just couldn't resist picking up this $9   1970's wedding dress that screamed at me REGENCY!!!!  I don't own anything Regency although the fabric stash includes two matte silk saris that "one day" will be dresses.  There is an event in two weeks that I want to attend -- The Cyprian's Ball, and I have nothing to wear. This may be the year I will make up a wardrobe.  It is probably,  after the huge sleeves of the 1890s, my least favorite period.  I don't think my body is as well suited for it as for more Victorian clothing.  Or maybe I just like corsets too much.

 Above is the dress.  There is very sweet trim on which I shall remove for another project.  The fabric is a silk blend thin taffeta which is lined. Although most Regency dresses are flowing silk, cotton or linen fabrics, I have found several examples of taffeta.  Mostly these were very formal gowns.  The dress fits except across my upper back - I am a bit broad shouldered for my size.  I should be able to fix that with fabric I take out of the front of the bodice.  Sadly the original train was used as a table cloth and went missing over the last several decades.

There are very nice pin tuck details on the bodice and at the bottom of the dress.  To get a more correct silhouette I will have to add fabric.  I will be going for a look similar to the dress at the top of this post.  And I will be able to do so by adding silk from another deconstructed wedding gown that has been sitting in my fabric stash for a long while.  I also have wonderful satin slippers I bought a while back from Payless Shoes for $3 on clearance that will work perfectly for this era.  Yah for budget costuming!

Here is a close up of the pin-tucked fabric and the original 1970s trim.  The pin-tuck fabric is on the bodice, sleeves, and at the hem.

 Here is  a photo of the dress and some lines I added to show where I am going with this.  I pondered the neckline which right now is high with a stand up collar, and with outside input and much thought I decided to lower it and square it.  I will add the stash fabric so I will be able to get more fullness in the back.  A very generous coworker loaned me her embroidery machine to do eyelets in the back so I can lace rather than button the dress up.  This will help in regards to how much fabric I need to add to the back to be able to close the upper back.


Here is where I am:
 1.  Washed dress
2.  Removed all the trim
3.  Removed zipper
4.  Removed top from bottom.
5.  Opened the single seam (back) on dress bottom

Here is what I have to do:
 1.  Dismantle the rest of the stashed wedding dress for additioanl fabric
2.  Lower neckline
3.  Add fabric to back
4.  Assemble new skirt
5.  Machine embroider lacing holes in the back of bodice
6.  Attach the skirt/bodice.

New Year - New Projects: REORGANIZE, REPAIR, RESTORE, REMAKE

2013 is the year I hope to get to fixing a lot of different items.  I ripped the crochet lace on one of my favorite antique petticoats, there is antique muslin to patch, beads to fix, lace to repair, and on and on.

I have many antique pieces that need some TLC.  These are bits collected over the years.  Usually scored at unusual places for small bits of money with a large enthusiasm for history...and "a plan."  Of course we all have "plans" that is how we end up with fabric stashes, mountains of trimmings, and every sewing notion known to man -- or woman.

I have big ambitions for this year.  We will have to see eleven months and one week from now to see what really happens.

I am not going to outline all these small projects now, there are too many. I have made a committment not to bring new projects into the house this year.  As I dig through boxes in my bold attempt to organize my fabric stashes, my "to get to projects", in my remaking antique clothing too damaged to save "as is," I will post my challenges, endeavors, successes and failures...I say "failures" because I do believe my goal list is a bit challenging, even for the most organized.  I'm not organized, work full time, have a family, and have a household to manage...

...so we will see what comes to fruition this year -- wish me well.

 

New Year - New Projects: REALLY RETRO to REGAL REGENCY

I was able to get this wonderful 1970s wedding gown that has a really great Regency look.  Sadly the matching train was used as a tablecloth then lost which means I don't have fabric to match to make it look more Regency like.  This will be my first project this year, I will be starting in the next week or so.  See picture below:

I don't own a Regency gown and there is a Regency event I want to go to soon.  I will blog more about that later.  I am going to try to add some fabric I have at home to the back and it won't be correct but it will be costumish -- and for budget costuming a hand me down dress and some fabric stash fabric is a good way to go.  I even have some Payless satin slippers I found years ago on clearance for $3 that will work well for evening slippers.

One question that I haven't figured yet is how low to cut the neckline -- if at all. Low or high, square or V-neck?

Low

High

Cross Over

I've already made stays, they aren't great but they hold the girls well enough.  Part of why I don't like Regency period is that I don't think that my body is really built for this time period.  I think of this period as more suited to a svelt and sleek body.  I tend to look...um...extra ample in Regency stays and I don't like that in these dresses.  Ok for Ren Faire, not so great for elegant evenings.

Excuse the temporary shoelace tie :-)

New Year - New Projects: DYEING AND MOURNING

I have always wanted a black mourning gown, and I wanted a silk one at that.  I have over the years purchased very inexpensive silk wedding gowns for their fabric.  However, one tires of always wearing ivory or white so I will be venturing into dyeing the fabric.  This will involve what is called acid dyeing but the acid part is really all about adding an acidic component to the dye like citric acid or white vinegar.

I also want to focus on the Natural Form Victorian period.  The dresses were often trained and worn closer to the body.  I found this free pattern online which looks a lot like one of the back of the dress below:

I plan to use one of the Truly Victorian patterns as a starting point for the bodice but it will need to be considerably changed (polinaise pattern to a fitted bodice pattern).  I will also drape a petticoat and maybe create bottom and hip pads to get a better hourglass shape without having to tight lace like crazy.

New Year -- New Projects VICTORIAN PARASOLS!

 PARASOLS!
     This year is the year I hope to fix, restore, and sell, several parasols I purchased over the years.  My budget costuming rule has always been not to spend too much money on anything, including these parasols.  There are two that are my favorite.  One was pristine when I bought it and thanks to the United States Postal Service was received snapped in half.  150 years of American history carefully preserved only to be stomped on by apes.  The secure triangle shaped carton was literally bent in half.   Of course they provided no apology or reimbursement to either myself or the seller.  The seller kindly let me keep the parasol and refunded my purchase.  Now the hard part is how to repair it?

HEARTBREAK!

The spectacular and absolutely perfect lace top - damn the USPS!

I have had some interesting adventures with the parasols I know have.  This one was sold as folding "bone" carriage parasol.  It is very broken and missing some of the "bone" so it was really nearly given away.  The seller told me that she found it broken in the bottom of a trunk she bought at an estate sale.  I have some thoughts how to repair the wonderful "bone" handle.  And for those of you who wonder why I am saying "bone" -- well lets say that California has some of the most restrictive ivory sales laws in the country now.  Even for antiques.  In good faith the seller thought she was selling  a bone parasol:

 

As I have an amazing father who supports all things zany, and that includes my dressing up as an adult, he bought me an amazing birthday gift!  This one will not be for sale!

This is not broken, rather it is a two piece handle that connects with a screw in handle.

As much as I love the lace covered parasols this is my favorite parasol.  A bonus is that both glass eyes are intact.  You sometimes find these with the glass missing.

 

This parasol is 1880s.  Wonderful knotted handle:

Sadly the lace top has some damage.

 


There are several more, including this one which has another weird story behind it.  I ordered it and received a carved Regency  Period pot instead.  The seller went MIA, and the pot had sold for considerably more than the parasol.  I finally got a hold of the seller who told me they would reimburse me shipping the pot back, never got my shipping money or my parasol...huh?  A few weeks later Ebay reimbursed me for the parasol I never received as well as my shipping costs to the seller for the pot.  Two days later the parasol came in the mail!  I sent the seller a note saying that in the spirit of "the right thing to do"  I would reimburse him for the parasol as I now had it and the money I paid for it.  I also gave him a time period as in to respond in...and he never did!  So it cost me in the end the only thing the parasol cost me was a great deal of grief! Lol!

 There are several others but they are in rough shape.  They need some TLC and I don't have good photos.  I will post as I move along and get them together.

The 1880 Book Dress: UPDATED--Notes, Photos and Final Bits

In hindsight, a bigger bustle would have been better.

My lovely and elegant friend and I.

"Borrowed" Gentelmen

Well, I made it to high tea, left the house for San Francisco at noon but was still sewing at 11:30, made the hat up the night before (I will blog about my glue gun hat), feeling very under the weather and quite pasty, and the dress not done but doable with a number of straight pins to hold me all together.  It was a lovely event.  I have an entire album at "Tfirah Costuming" on Facebook which can easily be viewed.

Our Guild really did an amazing job!  The Palace hotel was so so lovely.  And the ladies and gentlemen were spectacular! 

High tea participants..such a lovely group.

01.06.13  HAPPY BELATED NEW YEAR. Here are some more photos and thoughts about finishing the gown:

SLEEVES:  I'll begin by saying that I wish I had seen the following tutorial the night I was trying to get the sleeves onto the dress.  Jennifer Rosbrugh of Historical Sewing provided the following wonderful tutorial on how to deal with too much sleeve cap --

http://historicalsewing.com/how-to-deal-with-too-much-width-in-your-sleeve-cap/comment-page-1#comment-11047

Here are my pictures, you can compare these to the above photos, although I wish I would have made the sleeve cap even smaller....now I know how.

All that poof on top was not period correct and after basting the sleeves in twice and ripping it out twice I finally pulled out a different pattern and traced that sleeve cap (see below).

I know now that this isn't the best way but it worked.

COLLAR:  The other challenge was the collar.  I have a pencil neck...there I said it.  So my first try at a collar was dismal.  I ended up pinching quite a bit of fabric at the back of my neck.  My first thought was to be quick (I was pressed for time) so I made a seam.  That was a disaster, although it did give me a template for a more curved collar which I needed (see finished dress).  Here is the not so great attempt --

LAPELS:  I drafted the lapel shape with scrap fabric, then made a paper pattern.  My first try was to make a single lapel that was double faced with fashion fabric, but it turned out that it was much too thick.  I decided to make only a single layer, serge the edges and then turn them under once to avoid bulk and hand stitch the edges down.  This approach greatly reduced the bulk and once I partially stitched the lapels down to the bodice you could not tell they were unlined.

DECIDING ON UNDER SUPPORT:  Initially I was going to wear an antique bustle cage under my dress.  I decided in the end not too although I wish I had a bigger bustle to wear under the dress when the final pics came in.  I decided against the bustle cage because it gave too much of an 1870s silhouette to the project.  Below you will see the bustle and petticoat with and without the cage.  The photo with the cage shows how the front silhouette with the cage is too 1870s instead of the flatter 1880s front.  It is a small detail but one that made a big difference to me when I was constructing an 1880s dress.

    

ATTACHING THE SKIRT AND BODICE:  I borrowed from historical photos (and previous experience) the necessary idea of attaching hooks and eyes to the skirt and bodice.  I wasn't able to get all of them on before the Tea but I was able to get a few sewn in which were necessary to keep the heavy skirt from sagging down and showing the waist band.  Below is an antique skirt showing an example of where the bodice would have attached.  I personally prefer to use the hook piece along with a flat bar eye rather than the curved ones.  I find that I get better placement.  I also used silver hooks and eyes to be able to see the connection points easier than if I had used black ones.:

HAT:  I will blog a separate entry for the "duct tape - glue gun" hat I threw together the night before, but here are some close up photos:

I ended up tucking up the peacock feather up a bit to better flow with the black feathers